Anacortes A Custom Deck Built for March Point's Exposure
March Point sits on a peninsula between Fidalgo Bay and Padilla Bay, just outside Anacortes, and that location puts a deck through more than most Skagit County properties see. A deck has no roof, no siding, and no wall cavity to protect it — it's a structure that lives outside year-round, fully exposed to whatever the peninsula's weather does. On March Point, that means salt-laden air moving off open water from more than one direction, driving rain that comes in sideways instead of straight down, and a moss season that runs long even by western Washington standards.
A deck design that works fine on a sheltered inland lot elsewhere in the county doesn't automatically hold up here. This page covers what a March Point deck actually needs to last, what goes into a correctly built one, how our process works, and why it matters that we already build decks in this specific area.
What March Point's Climate Does to a Deck
Salt Air From Two Directions
Because March Point is surrounded by water on multiple sides, homes here take on a steadier dose of salt-laden air than properties set back from the shoreline. A deck sits directly in that air with nothing shielding it. Salt speeds up corrosion in any exposed metal — fasteners, post brackets, railing hardware — and a fastener that's corroding from the inside loses holding strength well before it looks obviously bad. On a structure people walk and stand on, that's a real concern, not a cosmetic one.
Wind-Driven Rain
Rain in this part of Skagit County doesn't always fall straight down. Wind off the bay pushes it sideways, driving it up under railings, into the ledger connection where the deck ties into the house, and between deck boards that aren't gapped correctly. A deck that sheds water fine on a calm day can still trap moisture the moment wind gets involved — and on an exposed peninsula site, wind is involved often.
A Long Moss Season
Mild temperatures and near-constant moisture give moss a long growing season across this region, and a horizontal deck surface is one of the first places it takes hold, since it holds water longer than a vertical wall and stays damp between rain events. Shaded decks and north-facing surfaces usually show it first, and any decking material with even a little surface porosity gives moss something to grip.
Choosing the Right Decking Material
Material choice matters more on an exposed site like March Point than it would on a sheltered inland lot, because the gap in performance between a well-suited product and a poorly-suited one shows up faster here. The three categories most homeowners weigh are pressure-treated or cedar wood, capped composite, and cellular PVC.
Wood
Pressure-treated lumber and cedar look good when new and are the traditional choice, but both need regular sealing or staining to hold up against sustained moisture, and both are more vulnerable to fastener corrosion in salt air over time. Left unmaintained even a season or two, wood in this environment is usually the first material to show moss, graying, and soft spots.
Capped Composite
Capped composite boards have a plastic shell around a wood-fiber composite core, which resists moisture absorption, staining, and UV fade far better than uncapped composite or wood. On a peninsula site with steady salt air and moisture, that cap layer is doing real work — it's the difference between a board that needs occasional washing and one that needs ongoing sealing.
Cellular PVC
PVC decking has no wood fiber at all, so it doesn't absorb moisture the way even capped composite can at cut edges or fastener holes. It typically costs more than composite and can flex a bit more under heavy point loads, but for a deck close to the water or in heavy shade, some homeowners find the added moisture resistance worth the cost.
| Material | Handling Salt Air & Moisture | Moss Resistance | Upkeep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cellular PVC | Excellent — no wood fiber to absorb moisture | Strong, smooth non-porous surface | Occasional washing |
| Capped composite | Strong — cap layer resists moisture and staining | Good on most lines | Occasional washing |
| Uncapped composite | Moderate — some moisture absorption at exposed fiber | Fair; more prone to buildup over time | Periodic cleaning |
| Cedar | Moderate — natural resistance, but needs sealing | Fair when sealed and maintained | Regular oiling or sealing |
| Pressure-treated wood | Weak against sustained salt exposure over time | Poor without regular treatment | Regular sealing or staining |
What a Correctly Built Deck Involves Here
The visible decking surface gets most of the attention when homeowners picture a custom deck, but on March Point the framing, fasteners, and drainage details underneath are what actually decide how long it lasts. A build done right for this location includes:
- Framing material rated for sustained moisture exposure, sized correctly for the span and load
- Stainless steel or coastal-grade corrosion-resistant fasteners throughout, not standard hardware that starts corroding in salt air within a few seasons
- Hidden fastener systems on the deck surface where the product allows, reducing exposed metal and giving a cleaner walking surface
- Correct board gapping for drainage and material movement, so wind-driven rain and standing moisture can actually drain and dry between boards
- Proper ledger board flashing where the deck ties into the house — one of the most common places moisture gets into the structure on a poorly built deck
- Joist spacing matched to the specific decking product's span rating rather than a generic framing layout
- Railing and post attachment sized for the wind exposure the site actually sees, which on an open peninsula lot is often more than homeowners expect
- Grading and ventilation underneath the deck so moisture doesn't sit against the framing between storms
Skip any one of those and the deck usually still looks fine on day one. The problems — a soft joist, a loosening railing post, fastener corrosion staining the boards around it — tend to show up a few winters later.
Design Considerations Specific to March Point
Beyond material and structure, a few site-specific questions are worth working through before anything gets built. Wind exposure affects how open a railing design can be versus how much wind-break value a partial screen or glass panel adds. Sun and shade patterns affect which decking colors and materials will hold up best against fading and moss, since a heavily shaded deck needs different moss-resistance priorities than one that gets sun most of the day. Elevation and grade around the house affect drainage design, stair placement, and whether the substructure needs extra attention for standing water. On a peninsula lot with more open exposure than a typical in-town property, these decisions carry more weight than they would on a sheltered site.
How Our Process Works
We start with a site visit to see what's actually there — existing structure condition if it's a replacement, drainage and grade around the deck area, sun and wind exposure through the day, and how exposed the site is to open water. From there we talk through decking material options that fit the budget and how the space will actually get used, whether that's a quiet spot off the kitchen or a larger deck built for entertaining.
Permitting for a deck project in unincorporated Skagit County or within Anacortes city limits generally follows standard setback, structural, and elevation requirements, and we handle that as part of the job rather than leaving it for the homeowner to sort out. Once permitted, the build follows the sequence above — substructure and framing first, sized and fastened for the site's actual exposure, then the decking surface, railing, and any stairs or trim work. We finish with a walkthrough covering what the specific material you chose actually needs going forward, which for most modern decking is minimal, but not nothing.
What Your Deck Still Needs From You
Even a well-built deck in the right material needs some routine attention in this climate to reach its full lifespan.
- Rinse or wash the deck surface periodically to clear salt residue, pollen, and organic buildup before it works into the surface or cap layer
- Keep gaps between boards clear of leaves and debris so water and airflow can move through the way the design intends
- Check railing posts and hardware once a year for early corrosion or loosening, especially heading into the wet season
- Trim back overhanging branches or plants that hold moisture against the deck or block sun and airflow across the surface
- Address any soft framing or standing water underneath right away — that's a structural issue, not a cosmetic one, and it doesn't improve with time
Why It Matters That We Already Work March Point
A crew that mostly builds decks further inland can still put one together competently, but a March Point job has variables that don't come up as often elsewhere in Skagit County — corrosion-grade fastener requirements from sustained salt exposure on more than one side, wind loads tied to open water exposure, and moss pressure that runs longer here than in more sheltered spots. Working this area regularly means we're not guessing at those requirements on your project. We've seen which decking lines hold up against March Point's specific mix of salt air, driving rain, and moss, and which fastener grades and framing details are worth the extra attention rather than an upsell.
That familiarity also shows up in the smaller judgment calls — how to orient a deck for the wind a particular lot actually sees, or being straightforward about what a deck here realistically needs to last versus what's just an added line item.
Get a Straight Answer About Your Deck
Whether you're replacing a tired deck, building new, or want an honest read on what a custom deck would take on your March Point property, we're happy to walk the site with you and lay out the options plainly. Reach out below for a free, no-pressure estimate.